Main courses
A refined Tuscan-style braise of wild boar and woodland mushrooms, conceived with a haute cuisine sensibility: deep game flavor, polished sauce work, disciplined mise en place, and a final presentation that evokes the forests of the Maremma.
Recipe video
Before any heat is applied, organize the dish as a brigade would. Trim the boar carefully, removing surface sinew and any oxidized edges; this is essential for a cleaner, more noble flavor. Cut into even cubes so the cooking rate is uniform. Prepare two separate trays: one for the marinating aromatics and one for the braising aromatics. Clean the mushrooms only with a brush or barely damp cloth; do not soak them, or they will steam instead of sauté.
Place the boar in a non-reactive container with wine, carrot, celery, onion, garlic, juniper, peppercorns, bay, rosemary, and thyme. The meat should be fully bathed; if needed, weigh it down lightly with a small plate. Refrigerate 10 to 12 hours.
The next day, remove the meat and drain thoroughly. Strain the marinade, keeping both the liquid and the vegetables. Pat the meat perfectly dry with paper towels.
Preheat the oven to 150°C / 300°F. Heat a heavy cocotte or rondeau. Add olive oil, then the diced pancetta; render gently until lightly golden. Remove and reserve. Increase heat slightly and sear the boar in small batches, never crowding the pan. Each cube should develop a dark hazelnut crust before turning. Reserve the meat batch by batch.
Once all the meat is colored, lower the heat and add the strained marinade vegetables to the same pot. Sweat them slowly until lightly caramelized. Stir in tomato paste and cook it for 2 minutes to remove raw acidity.
Return pancetta and boar to the pot. Deglaze with the strained marinade liquid, scraping the base meticulously with a wooden spatula. Reduce by roughly one third so the wine loses harshness and gains concentration. Add the stock until the meat is just barely covered. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover with a lid slightly ajar, and transfer to the oven. Cook for 2 hours to 2 hours 30 minutes, turning the meat once halfway.
The braise is ready when the boar yields easily to the tip of a knife but still retains shape; it must not collapse into shreds.
About 25 minutes before the meat is done, heat a wide sauté pan. Add olive oil and butter, then the shallot. Sweat briefly without coloring. Add the cremini first; sauté over lively heat until their water evaporates and they begin to brown. Add the porcini and continue until they are glazed, fragrant, and lightly roasted at the edges. Season with salt and finish with parsley. Hold warm
Lift the boar pieces gently from the braising liquid and keep warm. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine chinois, pressing lightly on the vegetables without forcing cloudy solids through. Skim excess fat. Return the liquid to a clean saucepan and reduce to a lightly coating consistency. Whisk in the butter for gloss. Add the optional grated dark chocolate and a few drops of vinegar; these do not make the sauce taste sweet, but deepen it and sharpen the finish in a restaurant-style way. Correct seasoning.
Return the boar to the reduced sauce and nap gently over low heat for 4 to 5 minutes. Fold in about two thirds of the mushrooms, reserving the most attractive pieces for plating. Add fresh thyme leaves.
On a warm plate, place a quenelle of potato purée or a soft spoonful of polenta slightly off-center. Arrange the boar in a compact, elegant mound. Spoon the sauce around and partly over the meat, never flooding the plate.
